Let me get this straight. I don't surf. I have, however, seen some pretty amazing pictures of water tubes where the collapsing wave leaves a small recess that people surf through. I imagine this must be what it's like for someone to surf their first tube.
Why I surf
The sapphire surface trembles
Barely containing itself
Waiting to explode
The tension is unbearable
But there!
The swell has begun
Climaxing
Releasing itself at the point of no return
The landscape twists
The sapphire blue
Becomes a blazing celestial white
The very laws of nature are usurped
And all order becomes frantic
Blissful chaos.
This is where my soul
Leaves this plane
And finds its completion
In the tube.
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